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What Are Your Favorite Detailing Products?

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  • #61
    this^
    Bone Stock!
    Al Piemonte Ford Sales
    847-288-9604
    John G

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    • #62
      Originally posted by Jake From State Farm View Post
      I was cleaning pads 2-3x each panel, but the paint was fresh from wet sanding and i really should have been using a yellow pad instead of an orange. I had to work sections much longer/slower than I normally would to work some heat into the clear and clean it up. I'm sure that was the issue.
      Working the product in too long will cause dust for sure. It can get messy, but, some panels require more work than others depending on the condition of the paint.
      2016 Durango R/T AWD - Billet Silver
      2014 GT - RACE RED -
      Ported CJ Manifold, SCJ Mono-Blade TB, Drew's Custom Intake, Kooks 1-3/4" LT Headers, Kooks O/R H-pipe Borla S-Type Axle-backs Mcleod Clutch-Line, Steeda Motor Mounts - AED Tuned. 443 RWHP / 388 RWTQ
      Built-by Dmark Performance - GONE

      2005 GT -Vortech V2, 456 RWHP/394 RWTQ, 8 PSI - GONE



      Former Coyote Snob Member #075

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      • #63
        Originally posted by Jake From State Farm View Post
        I was cleaning pads 2-3x each panel, but the paint was fresh from wet sanding and i really should have been using a yellow pad instead of an orange. I had to work sections much longer/slower than I normally would to work some heat into the clear and clean it up. I'm sure that was the issue.

        Cleaning on the Fly during each panel is necessary, Ill usually end up using a clean dry pad every panel so that I don't have to clean the pads as much. This also preserves the pads.

        FYI - Heat is not needed to correct paint, it is an unnecessary byproduct from buffing and product buildup in the pad. You get your correction from the product and the pad combination as well as having proper equipment.

        Heat will build up faster when you have more product in the pad, and will also cause your pads to collapse and will loose its correcting ability.

        Dusting is also cause from not holding your pad flat. This can also cause spatter.

        If your using a clean pad and get dust then the pad likely has some dry product left in it. I fix this by putting the pad on my buffer and spin it on medium speed and slap the pad to remove any dust. Then prime and begin buffing.
        If the pad starts dusting then I move to another clean dry pad.


        Devious Detailing - Contact
        Website - www.deviousdetailing.com
        Pricing - www.Deviousdetailing.com

        http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3179943

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        • #64
          Bumping an ancient thread...

          Did some clean up on the daily driver over the weekend and used one of my favorite products, Collinite #845 . This is an awesome wax for people like me who are lazy. The shine is awesome on a light colored car and it lasts for 5-6 months. It's dirt cheap too!

          I prepped the car by washing it with Duragloss #901 wash concentrate, then decontaminated the paint with IronX. The paint was clean enough at that point, so I topped it off with Collinite 845 and about an hour later, gave the car a wipedown with Duragloss Aquawax to make sure there were no streaks left behind.





          I've been trying to use up all of my old detailing products so I can try some of the new stuff that's on the market. What is in everyone's detailing arsenal?
          -Matt

          2012 Mustang Boss 302 - Garage Queen Edition
          1990 Mustang 5.0 LX - Round the block race car
          1988 Mustang 5.0 GT

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          • #65
            Nu finish is my fav


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            Bone Stock!
            Al Piemonte Ford Sales
            847-288-9604
            John G

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            • #66
              Originally posted by BEAST View Post
              Nu finish is my fav


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
              Well according to the commercials it works on junk so I understand why you like it.
              2014 GT500 Sterling Gray
              2011 GT500 Race Red - SOLD
              2011 GTCS White - SOLD

              Fuck Photobucket

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              • #67
                2003 DSG Cobra
                1999 Performance Red GT (SOLD)

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                • #68
                  Fight! Fight! Fight!
                  -Matt

                  2012 Mustang Boss 302 - Garage Queen Edition
                  1990 Mustang 5.0 LX - Round the block race car
                  1988 Mustang 5.0 GT

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                  • #69
                    Yes sir pockets are empty


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                    Bone Stock!
                    Al Piemonte Ford Sales
                    847-288-9604
                    John G

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      Any suggestions for cleaning chrome wheels?
                      2011: SVT Raptor (Blue Flame Mettalic)
                      2009: Shelby GT500 (Vapor Silver)
                      1988: LX Hatchback (Dark Shadow Gray)

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                      • #71
                        Originally posted by RatedSVT View Post
                        Any suggestions for cleaning chrome wheels?
                        Wash them with regular wash soap. Dry them and go over them with Eagle 1 Nevr-Dull
                        -Matt

                        2012 Mustang Boss 302 - Garage Queen Edition
                        1990 Mustang 5.0 LX - Round the block race car
                        1988 Mustang 5.0 GT

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                        • #72
                          Originally posted by MGLT View Post
                          Wash them with regular wash soap. Dry them and go over them with Eagle 1 Nevr-Dull
                          I have the Nevr-Dull wasnt sure if that would scratch the wheels at all.
                          2011: SVT Raptor (Blue Flame Mettalic)
                          2009: Shelby GT500 (Vapor Silver)
                          1988: LX Hatchback (Dark Shadow Gray)

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