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Thread: Rear End Upgrade

  1. #31
    Senior Member CMC CobraJet ModularMadMan's Avatar
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    - Oil slinger will probably be ok. Any doubts; change it. Rock Auto most likely has it for just a few dollars.

    - To install the races, I've used driver sets or a piece of mild steel barstock I turned down to the needed diameter on a lathe at work.
    Unless you have dry ice available; don't bother kitchen freezing bearing race to help with installation. You'll never get it cold enough to significantly reduce the diameter.

    - Self locking nuts are one time use because they supposedly can lose their ability to self lock if reused. I've reused pinion nuts with liquid Locktite on leaky seal replacements and I've never had an issue...

    - Unless they've changed suppliers, NAPA used to sell SKF bearings.
    Its the cheap no name Made in China bearings I'd be leery about.
    Check Rock Auto for the bearings you need.

    - Have you thought about removing the complete rear end assembly from the car to work on it?
    Considering the age of your car, most likely the control arm bushings are shot requiring removal to replace.
    Hang the brake calipers out of the way and unbolt the lower shocks & control arms and the rear end assembly is free from the car.
    Plus while the rear is out, you can clean & paint it.
    Overall, it will be easier IMHO.

    Here's a rear I built for my 98 GT.
    Same rear is currently in my 94 Cobra.







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  2. #32
    Tank Buster CMC 302 crewwolfy's Avatar
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    I was considering removing the rear end, and if I knew I'd be doing this twice, I might have. But space is tight as it is. And I'm doing this solo, which would make moving it around a challenge. Still, this doesn't work out as-is, I may go down that road. LCAs and shocks are on the list, anyway.

    Ordered a Timken bearing/race from Summit. Also grabbed an oil slinger. I only asked because I assumed it'd be one of those impossible-to-find parts. Not the case. Beam in/lb torque wrench is in the mail, too.
    2002 Mineral Gray Mustang GT

  3. #33
    Tank Buster CMC 302 crewwolfy's Avatar
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    Small update. Finally got the races in. Currently installing the pinion. The amount of torque is intense, considering the available space. Took a while to get to that point, so saving energy for a better day to keep torquing. Need to figure out how to get over 140 ft/lb. Nice bump on the forehead from an exhaust u-bolt, but I think I'll live to wrench another day.
    2002 Mineral Gray Mustang GT

  4. #34
    Tank Buster CMC 302 crewwolfy's Avatar
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    Just wanted to update this thread. I tried. I failed. Installing a new diff and ring and pinion is..complicated.. A lot of science, and a good bit of art.. There are people that are more skilled in both aspects than I am, and I want quality, so I took the car to Dynotune MP (per CMC's countless recommendations, and you can find my great experience here).

    In the end, I think I spent a few hundred dollars that I didn't have to, trying to sort things out on my own. But I did learn some things. I guess I'd say that if you want a fast car, take it to a sponsor. If you want to learn new things, be okay with failing, and learning from those failures (and maybe having someone clean up your mistakes afterwards).

    The rear end is done professionally, and I hope I never have to crack the pumpkin open again. I don't expect to expand on this thread, but I have a bunch of other shit to install, so kinda like everyone else here, I assume..
    2002 Mineral Gray Mustang GT

  5. #35
    Senior Member CMC CobraJet ModularMadMan's Avatar
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    What failed within your gear install?


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  6. #36
    Tank Buster CMC 302 crewwolfy's Avatar
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    In the end, I believe I put too small a shim on the pinion, and tightened the nut too tight. The gears whined slightly ~40mph coasting, but that range increased over time. I think I was close, but off enough to fuck it up. But it was a good experience; I managed swapping the axles (along with replacing the ABS rings) fine (it would appear), I bungled the sensors well enough that Mike & co. didn't complain, and I've moved my weakest link from my diff to my clutch.. yaayy......

    On the negative, if you screw it up, per Mike (whom I trust), you're wasting a ring and pinion. So attempting this on your own comes with a potential cost (as of today, $142 on AM with the CMC discount, plus fluids). If I knew I wouldn't have gotten it right, I'd have taken it to the pro initially. But it was fun trying, and I can eat the cost as a learning experience. I know a diff is tricky, but I'll move on to all the suspension bits and fuck other shit up soon.

    (FWIW, I haven't yet posted an impression of DynoTuneMP for the work, but that's because I want to put some miles on it. I bought this from the PO with a leaky rear end, so I'm sensitive out back. I fully expect a positive review in the future.)

    Edit: Mike definitely told me what I did wrong, I just remembered bits of it, as I tossed most of the info to my failure bin..
    Last edited by crewwolfy; 01-25-2018 at 01:16 AM.
    2002 Mineral Gray Mustang GT

  7. #37
    Custom Tuner CMC Sponsor DynotuneMP's Avatar
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    Back spacing was .006 we moved it to .010 and the pinion depth was to shallow if memory serves me correct. I don't believe Epi checked break away TQ before he removed it. On used bearings we set break away TQ around 20 inch pounds.

    Over all the rest of the work Crewwolfy did was fine. I'm sure if he had the same tools we do it would have been perfect. Super nice guy and really got me thinking about the 24hrs of lemons...... Contact me when it gets closer.
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    847-347-5331 or email: Mike@DynotuneMP.com

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  8. #38
    ^ Amateur Using Nitrous Oxide CMC Administrator MGLT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crewwolfy View Post
    In the end, I believe I put too small a shim on the pinion, and tightened the nut too tight. The gears whined slightly ~40mph coasting, but that range increased over time. I think I was close, but off enough to fuck it up. But it was a good experience; I managed swapping the axles (along with replacing the ABS rings) fine (it would appear), I bungled the sensors well enough that Mike & co. didn't complain, and I've moved my weakest link from my diff to my clutch.. yaayy......

    On the negative, if you screw it up, per Mike (whom I trust), you're wasting a ring and pinion. So attempting this on your own comes with a potential cost (as of today, $142 on AM with the CMC discount, plus fluids). If I knew I wouldn't have gotten it right, I'd have taken it to the pro initially. But it was fun trying, and I can eat the cost as a learning experience. I know a diff is tricky, but I'll move on to all the suspension bits and fuck other shit up soon.

    (FWIW, I haven't yet posted an impression of DynoTuneMP for the work, but that's because I want to put some miles on it. I bought this from the PO with a leaky rear end, so I'm sensitive out back. I fully expect a positive review in the future.)

    Edit: Mike definitely told me what I did wrong, I just remembered bits of it, as I tossed most of the info to my failure bin..
    $142 is cheap tuition for a good lesson learned! Much respect for trying something most people are afraid of trying

    Quote Originally Posted by DynotuneMP View Post
    Back spacing was .006 we moved it to .010 and the pinion depth was to shallow if memory serves me correct. I don't believe Epi checked break away TQ before he removed it. On used bearings we set break away TQ around 20 inch pounds.

    Over all the rest of the work Crewwolfy did was fine. I'm sure if he had the same tools we do it would have been perfect. Super nice guy and really got me thinking about the 24hrs of lemons...... Contact me when it gets closer.
    MP to the rescue!
    -Matt

    2012 Mustang Boss 302 - Garage Queen Edition
    1990 Mustang 5.0 LX - Round the block race car
    1988 Mustang 5.0 GT

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