Ok, have all the pics taken and mods shown. Pics can be clicked on for full size and once clicked, can scroll through album as slide show of process.
Thanks to those that waited patiently for the captions and explanations to be added.
Slide show link: http://s237.photobucket.com/albums/f...view=slideshow
The first pics, just kind of wanted to show what is included when you get the pump, and how it looks. Note the inlet/outlet configuration for this install.
In this pic you will notice i decided to get rid of the factory line and PPRV. I also chose to go with a clamp type that i prefer over screw style, seem to provide better holds. The socket size to remove the screws is 3/16", and use very little holding torque. Also notice by the bottom of the pump basket the 3 black rubber feet, do not loose these.
I always start by removing the fuel level sensor. Take care to not bend the arm or break the wire off the sensor portion, very delicate soldering point.
Next i remove the factory line/PPRV assembly as this will allow access to remove the top and pump.
As you can see the pump just pretty much gets sandwiched between the top and bottom, so this will play into one of the install parts. Notice the dirt accumulation inside. Change that fuel filter people!! I recommend every 15k or once a year.
Here's a nice side by side comparison of the factory pump next to the 340. Notice how much taller the 340 is.
In this pic is the factory pump filter and rubber shoe the pump sits in to allow clearance for fuel flow and stability.
Here is the 340 fitted with the shoe. Its a pretty tight fit, but does stay on. I had to run this filter instead of the provided one, as it will not fit in the factory basket.
With the shoe and filter installed and 340 in the basket, you can see how much taller it really is. It is also wider so does not fit through the factory opening.
What i found to be the easiest fix is to trim the ring mounted on the underside of the basket top. I cut it off in a even circle from the notch seen in the ring base. I used a dremel and cut off wheel to make this work out.
As you can see, the top almost goes all the way on, but can still use a little more modification to allow proper fitment and pump stability between the upper and lower.
I chose to use a 80 grit sanding roll and create a bevel type cut around the base on the circle till i could get the top to sit on the base with light finger pressure while holding the pump firmly in place. The bevel will also create a centering effect in the pump & top and keep it from moving.
Any time i upgrade pumps in the basket i like to add two additional fuel feed holes for the pump. I put these on either side of the lower level sensor mount and open them up to be level with the floor of the base. They are also in position so that on accel, the fuel will go into the holes and fill the basket as they are located forward facing.
Last step before fitting the top is to make sure all the plastic shavings are cleaned out very good.
Last edited by Drew@DMP; 08-16-2011 at 09:05 PM.
'12 Race red Raptor
Here is another view of the fuel feed holes. Notice the rubber feet for the pump. I like to leave the rubber check valve and filter in place to hold fuel in the basket. if removed may run the chance of fuel leaving the basket through the bottom on a low fuel level accel or turn almost like a drain in the tub.
Since the pump is in, now its time to mod the hat.
I started by taking a small straight nose pic, and getting between the clamp pinch connection. I then worked it side to side to open it up making the clamp looser. Once loose enough, it should allow you to unhook the tab and unfold the clamp off the line.
With the clamp removed, easiest way to remove the line is just to place a slit in the connection joint. Becareful to not use excessive pressure or damage to pipe fitting as this may create a potential leak.
Using a high pressure fuel line hose measure out the same length to replace the factory line unit.
Also notice the upgraded fuel line clamps i replaced the screw clamps with.
Next up is everyone's favorite, wiring. This really needs to done properly from the connection to the splice protection from shorting out. Both pumps do have a positive and negative terminal identification mark on them making this pretty hard to mess up.
I have laid out a soldering gun, solder, heat shrink and cutter/strippers for the wiring.
Before you solder the wires or tie them together, place your heat shrink over them first. I like to tie the wires together, place solder near the middle of the tie, chop off the tip and back fold the connection allowing the heat shrink to pass over. Make sure there isn't any sharp pieces/ wire strands that will poke through the heat shrink as this will defeat the next step in allowing a possible short.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or lighter (carefully) work well to shrink the wrap. Do not apply too much heat as it will burn after a short time from excessive heat.
What i like to do versus wrapping the wires together, is to use small zip ties and separate the wires while still creating a tie keeping them from rubbing into each other.
In the last step, you will now connect the fuel line from the hat to the pump and reinstall the sender unit. Make sure to triple check all the connections and proper pump voltage connections once more before installing.
Well, thats it. You should now have a finished/modified basket for the 340.
Last edited by Drew@DMP; 08-16-2011 at 09:10 PM.
'12 Race red Raptor
Damn Drew you weren't kidding about taking detailed pics about this writeup
Got somewhat delayed in getting the pump installed to test, but will be dropping the tank tonight and installing. I will be doing the FPVT a little tonight, and tomorrow. Going to add captions now lol.
'12 Race red Raptor
Have the pump in and been driving around trying to do all the voltage table corrections, getting closer. So far i notice no noise at all from the pump, very quiet.
'12 Race red Raptor
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